Archive for April, 2009

I’ve had some of the craziest moments in the last 30 hours. I left the finca and San Juan del Sur before all the chaos of Semana Santa.

I hitched a ride with my friend Justin so I could avoid all the taxi drivers in the city center yelling ‘taxi chica, rivas rivas rivas’. Justin was headed to Guatemala but I only wanted a ride to Managua or Leon, final destination Leon. After taking hours longer than we thought, turning around for forgotten items, I decided that instead of 4 hours to Leon, I would take the 8 hour trip to El Salvador. 8 hours versus 4 to go to a new country and pass back through Leon on the way back sounded like a great idea.

4 hours turned into 6, which turned into 8, which turned into 27. Tired, sweaty, weary, we’ve finally arrived in El Tunco on the pacific coast of El Salvador after 27 long hours in a car with 5 people and bags.

Border crossings here are not as easy as other places, especially if you have a car that wasn’t in your name the last time you passed through.

Leaving Nicaragua wasn’t without surprises. Justin passed a truck around a straight yellow line, and committed an ‘infraction’. Just as I had heard the stories, we got pulled over and we were told that we would have to pay a fine of $50 and go to the capital city while the police held his license until he could pay the ticket. Impossible. I ended up acting as the Spanish translator and realized pretty quickly that this guy would accept a bribe to let us go. A final negotiation of $7 passed discretely through the window and we were on our way again! Woohoo.

Seeing as things were going well, we decided to stop for a full meal just before the border to Honduras, where we would spend the next few hours or so. After a great meal and a couple of drinks, laughs, and excitement to get into El Salvador hopefully in time to get a good night’s sleep.

When we got to the border we discovered that Justin’s car permit had expired a few days earlier. A fine of $100 dollars we were told or we would have to wait until the morning. Thinking this was another bribe, we slipped a $20 then a $50 under the window to no avail. Again acting as translator, I argued for 2 hours why we shouldn’t have to pay, asking the customs agent to show me the law, explain it, and talking to two other agents, we finally just caved in and paid $100. On our way….. for 200 meters… until the border to Honduras.

It was now past midnight and as we were all struggling to stay awake. A ‘propina’, a licensed guide that helps people at the border for a negotiated, sometimes surprise, fee, approached us. He entered the locked office and woke up the night agent.

The night administrator randomly decided he didn’t like the wording on Justin’s documents that proved the car was sold to him by his earlier travel companion. Stamped, notarized, and valid in Panama, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua, it was not valid here. If the word ‘obligation’ had been ‘rights’, according to him, he could approve it as valid. Are you kidding me? Another hour goes by negotiating with the officer, who again won’t take bribes.

Finally Justin found another unarguable piece of paper that showed the title in his name, plus another bill of sale that apparently had wording that would pass. Whew. The other option was to sleep at the border. After another hour, making copies – where we finally negotiated the price down to $5, paid the propina $5 to his dismay, we finally were able to leave. Yes!

Being the navigator, I was told to watch for logs or any obstacle in the road that seemed ‘strange’. At 2 am we might be safer, but generally there are gangs ‘bandilleros’ that will throw something in the road to force you to stop and then proceed to rob you, probably at gunpoint. As Justin said ‘no matter what, we’re not stopping’. Alas, we eventually made it across the border to arrive into El Salvador’s border crossing around 5:30 am.

A much quicker process, but still tedious paperwork and waiting for the shift change to occur at 6 am (ish), we finally got approved and headed into El Salvador! No bribing, no gangs of robbers, we drove through the beautiful country headed to the beach south of San Salvador. The only thing to look out for is Central America’s largest and most notorious criminal gang, M-18, but we should be safe.

After a few wrong turns and several stops for better directions, we finally made it to El Tunco around 4 pm, an amazing little beach town on the pacific coast, to stay for Semana Santa. Found a great hostel with wi-fi where I can write this post. Spent the rest of the day body surfing and doing some boogie boarding a few short miles away from some of the best known surf breaks in the world!

As I sit here I was just offered a tiny shot of El Salvadorean Rum mixed with herbs and spices. Cheers! Off to eat some pupusos!

Note: This is an outdated this, check out the updated Global Traveler Essential Packing List 2

Trying to pack can be one of the hardest things to plan, especially if you’ll be gone for several months and through changing seasons!

But, I’ve found here are some of the basic necessities, below.  If you need anything else, make sure to bring some extra cash just in case (like if your luggage gets lost like mine did).  Or, just learn to be very very creative and rely on your instincts.

Here’s my list:

MUST HAVES:

Passport ID Visa card Backup visa card (this came in very handy when my first card was cut off unexpectedly)

Cash – $120-$150
—— The above are a necessity —- with these you can get anywhere or do anything.  I would pack all these in a money pack, like Eagle Creek money belts from REI, so nothing is lost.
Tip:  I would also carry an extra set of clothes in your CARRY ON if you have room.  Even just something light, like underwear and a t-shirt.  Don’t forget toothbrush and deodorant too.

CLOTHES:

1. Underwear – enough for 1-2 weeks
2. Socks – 2 pair
3. Flip flops – 1 pair (optional shower pair also)
4. Tennies / walking shoes – 1 pair Dress shoes – 1 pair (optional)
5. Jeans – 1 pair Pants – 1 pairShorts/Capris – 2 pair
6. Tshirts – 2 Tanktop – 2 Long tops – 2 (best if these can go over the tanktops, good to pack layers to put on and undo)

Tip: Cut out anything you can.  Study the season(s) beforehand.  Is it cold at night?  How do they dress?  Will you be doing hiking? If you are in a very hot climate, shed shed shed.  If it is temperate during the day but chilly at night, pack smart layers.

TECHNOLOGY:

1. Travel laptop > see blog for reviews, I carry an Acer Aspire One laptop.
Tip: If you’re working, I would recommend a travel laptop.  If you want to save weight/space and travel free of worry, I would rely on trusty, cheap internet cafes.

2. Pocket-sized camera + camera card

Tip:  Again, if you aren’t working on a photo or film project, why not just get the practical, cheap camera that you wouldn’t cry over losing.  I sold my two nice Canon cameras and bought a Canon SD-110.  I don’t have to worry if it’s lost or stolen and I back my pictures up regularly online.

TOILETRIES / OTHER:

1. 1 bar soap in container
2. Shampoo/conditioner combo in small bottle
3. Toothbrush with cap, small toothpaste tube
4. Cheap razor Makeup – only necessities Towel – lite dry – from REI

Remember: You can always buy more when you run out.  Travelers are also great at helping out if you are in a pinch.  It’s more fun to go to the store to find what you need and you’ll be happy you’re carrying less!

Ever experience times when the wind blows or there’s a smell in the air and it instantly takes you back into time?

I recall this experience like it was last week.  There were light gusts of wind blowing dustings of sand on my netbook as I sat at the ‘El Globo’ restaurant in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua.  Right on the beach, steps from the water, enjoying a lemon iced tea. I signed El Globo as well as a remote client, all before the ice melted in my tea.

This was one of the first times I felt accomplished from running Beer2Buds virtually, knowing that digital travel was becoming a reality and I was doing it.

Today I was told from Bank of America that my visa card was ‘massively compromised’ and was cut off – rest assured, they sent a new card to my Seattle address…

I thought I was being well prepared by notifying the travel department ahead of time. However, this wasn’t the issue.  A random, compromise from a 3rd party that affected several accounts was all they would disclose.  So, basically, I’m S.O.L.

The options are:

1) emergency cash via Western Union

2) emergency debit card sent in mail

Let’s talk about the Nicaraguan mail system. ‘Overnighting’ probably takes 3 weeks, if it arrives at all.  It may get to the capital of Managua, but trying to navigate the roads, if they exist or if they aren’t being fixed for hours on end for several tire-piercing rocks or perhaps a sudden steep dropoff in the middle of the road into a deep river valley, and trying to find an address, if it exists, is a miracle.

An address might be ‘1 block south from the restaurant El Timon’ or ‘200 meters north of the beach, next to Sanchez store’, then the town name, no such thing as a postal code.

SOL… and I don’t mean the sun.

Actually, I am very fortunate that I decided to bring a backup debit card to another account.  This card was not compromised.  So, potentially (until my next adventure) I will have access to some funds. Hooray.

At least I can soak my feet in the pool to lessen the sting of the ants that bit – or was it stinging pee – all over my feet last night.  I ‘got in their way’, of course, and they were angry.  Ouch.  At least they didn’t get in my hair like a friend in Samara, Costa Rica.  I don’t know how long I could hold my head underwater!

Today I was told from Bank of America that my visa card was ‘massively compromised’ and was cut off – rest assured, they sent a new card to my Seattle address…

I thought I was being well prepared by notifying the travel department ahead of time. However, this wasn’t the issue.  A random, compromise from a 3rd party that affected several accounts was all they would disclose.  So, basically, I’m S.O.L.

The options are:

1) emergency cash via Western Union

2) emergency debit card sent in mail

Let’s talk about the Nicaraguan mail system. ‘Overnighting’ probably takes 3 weeks, if it arrives at all.  It may get to the capital of Managua, but trying to navigate the roads, if they exist or if they aren’t being fixed for hours on end for several tire-piercing rocks or perhaps a sudden steep dropoff in the middle of the road into a deep river valley, and trying to find an address, if it exists, is a miracle.

An address might be ‘1 block south from the restaurant El Timon’ or ‘200 meters north of the beach, next to Sanchez store’, then the town name, no such thing as a postal code.

SOL… and i don’t mean the sun.

Actually, I am very fortunate that I decided to bring a backup debit card to another account.  This card was not compromised.  So, potentially (until my next adventure) I will have access to some funds. Hooray.

At least I can soak my feet in the pool to lessen the sting of the ants that bit – or was it stinging pee – all over my feet last night.  I ‘got in their way’, of course, and they were angry.  Ouch.  At least they didn’t get in my hair like a friend in Samara, Costa Rica.  I don’t know how long I could hold my head underwater!

I can’t complain. Yesterday I was invited to Fincas las Nubes (fincaslasnubes.com) to help out on a website project, and was invited to stay. Words can’t even begin to express. Full maid service, including meals from the farm made fresh and served, incredible views, 400 acres of a self-sufficient permaculture community overlooking San Juan del Sur. Here’s a quick picture of me working this morning from the pool on my laptop. Yesterday I was living in a dodgy smelly place for 5 bucks a night, now I’m in the lap of luxury.

El turista no sabe donde ha estado; el viajero no sabe a donde va” -Paul Theroux.

I’m going to work my way backwards in my posts since I’ve been a bit lazy for the past couple of weeks. Trying to get into a routine in Nicaragua has been more of a challenge than I anticipated. Next week being Easter week, or the famous Semana Santa, everywhere – at least in San Juan del Sur, a beach town on the Pacific side, is becoming chaotic. A town of about 20,000 quickly will turn into 200,000 in a few short days and prices are going up for apartments. Instead of finding a room for usd $65/mo, it’s costing $150-$400 and there are few spaces available.

This morning I went for a jog on the beach. I was supposed to have a meeting for a website for Finca las Nubes (fincalasnubes.com) but once again no call back or moved to another day. After living in Spain I should be used to this but the guy is American so I was trying to stick to a schedule… no such luck.

Just a minute ago the power went out. This happens nearly daily. Luckily, I moved from a cafe/coffee shop to a ‘cyber’ which has a generator (and … air conditioning). I have to cheat on the air today because all my clothes are soaked in sweat. Fortunately, not only did I come during the busiest and most expensive time of the year but also during the hottest season. Next time maybe I’ll do some homework.

After my jog on the beach at 6:30 am when it was nice and bright, and already warm, while walking home, there was a street vendor squeezing fresh oranges on the street. I couldn’t resist and bought some fresh, amazing orange juice for around .75 cents. To-go juices come in a plastic bag tied up with a straw poking out. I love it.

After my orange juice, a local Nicaraguan friend helped me get a private room and bath in a local hospedaje / establishment for usd $5/night. No free wi-fi but at least I’m blending in with the locals and not paying $10/night to be with all tourists. I’ve met a lot of great people and have some great friendships already forming, but I’d rather blend in a bit more.

My Spanish is getting better, but the slang here is doing my head in! I think I learned 5 new slang words for money yesterday. But, it’s fun to pick up some slang. I don’t want to be speaking so formally all the time. However, I’m scared for when I travel back to Spain – they’ll kill me for the way I speak! So, I’m trying not to be too informal.

Yesterday I met some kids from Menagua, the capital of Nicaragua and largest city. The rumor is that flocks come from Menagua for Semana Santa and they fight, get drunk, sleep in the streets, rob you, and so on. So, I was a bit leery. But I had seen them vending in the streets earlier and had a laugh and even bought some sunglasses (after gifting mine to a young Nicaraguan girl in Ometepe last weekend). So when they invited me to swim and body surf, I was happy to join – and glad I did because I had a great time. Today I passed by the group of them, maybe 5 people, and they all waved to me. They taught me about cusoquitos: the ugliest bug/shelled animal in the world. They come out only when the water is warmer and they dive into the sand. You can see their tiny legs pop up when the wave goes away. Millions of them! Que asco! Gross! They make them in soups… not for me, nor for many others, but somebody has to do it.

So that’s all for now. I’ll post some pics and tell more stories as I go. As my first post, it’s just a quick picture and catch up of the happenings here. I can also tell I’ve been hanging out with a lot of Brits and Australians, and also translating in my head from Spanish so the wording isn’t what I’d usually write. Kind of fun. Hasta luego.

El turista no sabe donde ha estado; el viajero no sabe a donde va” -Paul Theroux.

The tourist doesn’t know where they’ve been; the traveler doesn’t know where they’re going.

Great start to the day. I went to the beach for a morning jog at 6:30, and now am enjoying the birds and some fresh squeezed orange juice that I just bought on the street for 75 cents. Of course it’s in a bag like all the to-go juices, and I couldn’t complain, it tastes perfect. Also just checked into a place for US $5/night, private room/bath. Headed off now to a multi-million dollar finca in the country to discuss a website.

I’m going to start slowly blogging about my trip and general tumblelogging, working backwards since I have so much to add. But, yesterday I finally decided on tumblr versus WordPress, at least to start (although wordpress has a facebook connect plugin… oooh tempting). I added a new tumblr theme and I’m off!